Thursday, July 27, 2017

San Juan La Union, 24 hours for a non surfer Guide.

OK there are many blogs about san juan la union being one of two of the more popular surfing destinations (closest to metro manila Philippines in the main island of Luzon. But this blog is not about surfing LOL though you can always enjoy a surfing beach town without a surfboad. First, i came here in san juan la union on a non surfing season of june2017 which is the start of the rainy season for most parts of the country.



I boarded a deluxe Farinas bus on the Farinas bus terminal in sampaloc manila, thats along Lacson street near the corner of Dapitan street. Theres a mcdonalds and jollibee branch near it you if you need to eat or buy coffee you board the bus. Be there 30minutes before departure to secure a seat on weekdays or nonholidays. The bus has a restroom so you wouldnt worry too much about getting a leak. During peak season and holidays its better to reserve a seat, contact them for details. (#7314507)

It takes 6-7hours travel time from manila to san juan, la union. My bus left at 6am, ask the bus ticket guy to drop you off at urbiztondo, san juan, la union. Bus fare was P430 and i arrived around lunchtime in san juan.




Chillin hotel is about a 15minute walk from the highway towards the main surfing beach area in urbiztondo san juan la union. This is the more laidback area from the main surfing strip. Theres a public beach across the road were guests are free to access just ask the reception where it is exactly. The popular Florsan jetsam is less than five minutes away, its a quaint place for travelers who like to rough it up on accomodations renting hammocks and dormitory style rooms. They have a nice resto and lounging areas and the expansive beach has huts with bean bags.

Now heres the reasons why i chose Chill'n Hotel. First its just a small resort with eight rooms accomodations. Each room has a queensize bed, a flatscreen tv with cable, free internet, hot shower with towels, soap, airconditioner, a clothes rack... things that would make your stay pleasant. Outside your room our lounging chairs. The hotel has a small pool with cottages. A stay here would only cost you P1700 as for the resorts in the surf strip will cost you perhaps the same price but you get an old room with no television or your room situated beside the kitchen and it doesnt even include free breakfast. For a nice room in the surfing strip you need to pay more or double for what they charge at Chill'n. The breakfast offered here is OK since u have atleast four choices for your rice meals. The only gripe i have is perhaps why they dont serve brewed coffee.


Since i arrived around noon, i needed to rest after than long 6 hour bus ride. Took a two hour r3st and headed out to the main surfing area to check on the beach and the surfing scene. The waves were not at their best since surfing season starts around october to march but this would probably work for people who are still trying to learn how to surf and catch the waves.



The beach may look dirty for people who "discriminate on sand color" but the sand was fine, there were
even crablets running around so i guess the waters were pretty clean even for a swim. Generally san juan beaches have big waves and the beach tend to go deep quicker in some areas so better ask locals for advice on which spot is best for swimming.



After checking out on the surfing scene on a gloomy afternoon i took the time to check out on some of the properties along the beach....



This hotel along the beach has a plane to attract customers. Generally hotels along the beach are more expensive in san juan la union and some are a bit expensive for what they offer. The hotels along the highway generally offer better value at a much cheaper price.

So after my midafternoon strong along the surf beach on a drizzly weather i decided to go back to the hotel, rest for a few hours and go out again to the beach to witness the picturesque sunsets that La Union is famous for.....


Fantastic....after resting for an hour or two i got out of my room before sunset to witness a hazy display of san juan's famed sunset. It was painful to watch im the type who loves watching the sun go down on the horizon with little obstruction except for mountains and cloud cover but rain? Grrrr....btw heres a tip, florsham and jetsam are along the beach and theyre famous for providing cheap hostel type accomodations with communal rooms, hammocks and common areas for socializing. Without hesitation if youre young and or they party crowd type this resort fits like a glove but ....the food and drinks are expensive. So whatever value you get for staying in a cheap hammock at florsham, unless youre willing to spend more, it would be better if you eat and drink somewhere else.

After taking photos of the sunset, i thought of retiring early back to the hotel since it was continuously raining that late afternoon till early evening. I had an early dinner since i get one free meal for my room at their cafe on the roadside. The hotel's  small restos sells their own sausages and other homemade processed meat and you can choose your rice meal to go with their sausages, tapa etc. it comes with free 3in1 coffee. The garlic sausage was pretty good, the following morning i tried their tapa meal for P150 with coffee it was carabao meat a bit more salty and less chewy than your conventional beef tapa.

After dinner, i quicky doze off in my room and was awakened by the kid nextdoor who mistakenly knocked in my room. So i was awakened at 10pm and there were no more available jeeps to take me into the busier part of urbiztondo san juan. So i had no choice but to walk it took me around 20mins to reach sebay resort and the surrounding establishments.




I came to san juan la union during the start of the rainy season so some of the establishments closely
earlier than usual. Surf Shack is recommendable for its carefree ambiance, delectable food and good selection of cocktail drinks, all at reasonable  prices. The staff were attentive and everyone seems to be havin a good time there. So about 45minutes at surf shack i decided to head back to my resort and hired a trike for 50pesos, quite expensive for the short distance from sebay resort to chillin hotel which only took around a few minutes of travel.

The following morning  i decided to take a short jeepney ride to san juan town proper and buy supplies at the only 711 branch in san juan. Compared to san fernando and bauang, san juan la union is very laid back and less progressive. No jollibee or mcdonalds here, the small market near the town's cityhall is half empty with alot of vacant stalls and not much in terms of variety. its just basically a wetmarket to buy vegetables meat and fish. If you need to get supplies outside from urbiztondo san juan which is the beach district of san juan la union, a jeepney ride to town costs 8pesos along the highway you can easily flagdown any jeep with the sign "bacnotan" passes cityhall and the main church in san juan la union. Theres a 711 convenient store on the town center and a few small convenient stores that offer variety than what u can get from the small stores around urbiztondo.


San Juan cityhall


St John the Baptist Parish

a small park outside the church

After checking out san juan town proper i proceeded back to my hotel, had breakfast at their cafe and took a ride a jeepney towards surf beach area and enjoy my last remaining hours in san juan before i catch a bus back to manila. The glorious sun was out time to enjoy the beach!








 Since im not into surfing yet i cant give out much info but i was told that as of july 2017 surfing classes one hour costs 400pesos thats one on one tutoring with a pro surfer. not bad right?:

What really took my interests was this beach front resto with an international menu, and friendly personnel. Fatwave surf resort is your best option for a reasnable stay on the beach. Rooms start at P800 for fan rooms and P1000 for aircon 2pax. You can check their website for complete details. I believe this is the best value for your money accomodation if you wish to stay along the beach where the surfing action happens. 

I went back to my hotel afterwards, checkout their pool and packed my things, i will surely miss chillin hotel. I liked my room,  airconditioning was cold and the hotshower worked fine. 


this is the view outside my room, what do you think guys, nice right?
i thought of catching my bus somewhere more convenient since there are no designated areas for a bus stop. Since checkout was 12pm, i decided to have lunch at Olas Banditos its along the road a few meters from sebay resort. It offers delicious mexican favorites such as burritos, street style tacos, etc. The place is self service so be mindful of the garbage you leave on your table learn to clean up! BTW the food here is so yummy i ate here twice. 



After my brief lunch, i flagged down my bus outside this mexican resto and i was lucky to get a Florida bus superdeluxe, which has its own urinals and what i like most about this bus is that the seats are arranged that it doesnt feel cramped inside and the bus windows provide an unobstructive view of the outside. The bus i got is bound for its sampaloc terminal  but if youre headed for cubao you can tranfer to another bus thats bound for cubao during its half an hour stop at its bus terminal past the town of urdaneta city. 




The newest bus fleet of Florida are pink in color unless that would be an issue im sure you would thoroughly enjoy riding this bus i think travel time this long (7hours) deserve a transpo that wont stress you out :)

Till then enjoy your trip to san juan la union and feel free to leave comments or messages at the bottom....thanks! =)

Monday, June 12, 2017

Vigan, a living history of past and present, and it keeps getting better!

Travel with ease

Vigan is one of those places that dont get to receive much consistent publicty among local and foreign travelers unlike other more popular places like the banaue rice terraces, boracay, bohol, palawan etc. One of the reasons for this is that this northernmost town up north in the island of Luzon is like a seven to 9 hour drive from manila depending on the traffic.  I recently traveled to this world heritage site with ease at the shortest possible time. Rode a Farinas superdeluxe bus(Laoag bound) in their bus terminal in  sampaloc manila(P850 fare one way)  and i was dropped off outside of town along the highway near the bantayan tower  in the province of ilocos sur or infront of the Vigan arch sign. Bus left around 11pm and arrived in this quaint historical town around 6am. There are two stops along the way, one in rosario la union  and the last one like a mere 10minutes before Vigan. Tricycles are already waiting along the highway (fare P60) it can fit four people to take you to your booked hotel. 


Early Birds

If you arrive early like we did you, its a perfect time to check on the nearly empty town plaza and the imposing saint paul metropolitan cathedral. You can witness how Vigan residents start off their day, going to school, govt offices and restos around plaza salcedo and sidestreets of the famous calle crisologo opening up to local residents. Like Calle Crisologo many government building and restaurants around plaza salcedo, plaza burgos  and around calle crisologo have adopted spanish colonial architecture. The oldest ones of course are concentrated along the touristy streets of calle crisologo and its artery streets.






Its fascinating how the local government  has required building owners and establishments to follow a strict spanish colonial architercural theme not just the ones closer to calle crisologo but also all the govt offices and even popular manila based restaurants outside crisolog street. Vigan afterall is the best planned spanish colonial town in Asia hence its UNESCO distinction and the tourist draw for lovers of history and heritage. it has maintained or atleast preserved many old spanish colonial houses and buildings.

Hotels

Vigan hotels are reasonably priced and most hotels maintain the old world theme of Vigan. Theres even one hotel where  their beds are in the shape of horse carriages. You can book online or directly since it doesnt really get too busy in Vigan during offpeak seasons so there will always be a room for you. Its best to get a hotel thats closer to calle crisologo which is the main tourist street of vigan with its well preserved spanish colonial houses, restos, souvenir shops etc.






The cheapest one i saw when i made an inquiry was fan room at Grandpa's Inn, a fan room for P1500. I think  only the more luxurious Luna Hotel  has its own pool but if its a beach youre after, there is the  nearby public beach Mindoro beach and the govt runned resort which can be reached by tricycle at around P60. Many of the hotels have their small restaurants and offer plated meals or buffet for breakfast.


We stayed at Hotel Venetia de Vigan. It was a nice hotel, luxurious, modern it doesnt have an elevator so this might be a problem for PWDs and senior citizens. It has a grand staircase that leads up to its reception area. The rooms are really nice, staff are friendly, they have a smoking area in the hotel. The ambiance in their restaurant on the groundfloor is nice and their  bar is wellstocked. It used to be an old mansion converted into this lovely hotel. Everything works and room rates are decent for what you get. Calle Crisologo is less than five minutes walk and theres a supermarket nearby if you need to buy on necessities.



If youre looking for cheap food theres the dependable Jollibee and Mcdonalds along Plaza Burgos. Vigan is also famous for its empenada's sold in food stalls everywhere in Vigan and there are numerous empanada carienderias   on the side of St Paul Cathedral which is most frequented by locals and tourists. Another favorite dish in the Ilocos region is "sinanglaw"  and there are many sinanglaw joints scattered all over the city its extremely popular with the locals so its worth a food trip for visitors to try. 


Calle Crisologo

Vigan is renowned for travellers and lovers of history  for its well preserved spanish colonial houses but the most striking area that highlights this architectural feautures is the  street of calle crisologo where this element of spanish colonia architecture is most prevalent. When you are in Vigan you are transported back in time during the spanish colonization of the Philippines with its old houses, cobbled streets, colonial mansions converted into hotels, government offices and restaurants. 




Taking a picture on Calle Crisologo is like being part of a painting or getting inside a postcard. The best time for photos are in the early morning and the evening.





And what better way to enjoy calle crisologo than ride a horse drawn calesa. You can just hop on a calesa theyre usually parked outside Crisologo street behind the st paul cathedral for P150 an hour you can visit any part of the heritage town, visit its many museums and attractions. 

Tourist friendly town

The locals are friendly so dont hesistate to ask around if you need to get somewhere or buy something. The general language here is ilocokano  but most people can speak or understand Tagalog and English. I havent seen a town in the Philippines with very clear sign posts for directions.




Other Attractions

Though calle crisologo hold the main hub of things to do and place to be seen, there are several places outside crisologo that invites visitors to take a look or explore some more...

                                               Nuestra Senora Dela Caridad Church


                                                                Bantay Bell Tower


the most spectacular vista i have seen in my trip to the ilocos region can be seen when you climb up the bantay tower. The view of the local cemetery with the backdrop of the mountains and the greeny is nothing short of  breathtaking. I was simply at awe when i looked outside the tower to see such a wonderful view. 

                                                                   Hidden Garden


Hidden Garden  is basically a plant nursery turned into a restaurant. What may interest the visitor aside from the obvious the abundance of plant variety of this plant nursery are their restrooms. You can take a dump there and have people staring at you from the outside LOL.



Well the pictures above are just one of  among many places to visit and see in Vigan. BTW if you plan to go to hidden garden it would be wise that you just take a trike than hop on a horse carriage. Hidden garden is a bit outside of town and its really a waste of time trying to get their by calesa. Im also not inclined to suggest places like Baluarte and the Vigan river cruise. Baluarte is just a rundown zoo, with hardly that many species of aminals and their interactive encournters with the animals are not on a regular basis so you may just miss the bird shows etc. The museum of stuffed animals, prize collections of the famous local politician Chavit Sison on his overseas safari type of hunting  maybe too digusting  for people who adore animals in general. 


As for the river cruise, its not worth the price to go on this tour. Other bloggers and people who actually seen it were actually dismayed. Unless things improved in the near future i dont think ill recommend it for now. 

Dancing Fountain

One of the favorite activities of tourists and locals in Vigan is to watch the nightly spectacle outside the St Paul cathedral its vigan's newest tourist draw, its light and sound dancing founting show. There are viewing benches on both sides of Plaza Salcedo to enjoy this evening spectacle. Schedules are twice nightly 7pm and 8pm.


Spending some days in this city makes me want to think how different Vigan looks like to most cities in the country. And this good difference somehow erases whatever negative opinion some travelers have about cities like metro manila and other characterless, congested towns and cities in many parts of the country. Vigan is simply charming! and the fusion of that european influence on the town with touches of chinese and filipino heritage makes Vigan very special for vistors. You are immediately immersed in history and thrown back in a time capsule to times when the privileged elite of spanish descen, filipino and   chinese merchants walked thru those cobbled stone streets, ride calesas and did their prayers at the churches in the city. 


the artery streets to calle crisology  are also interesting but you need to be careful when crossing since trikes and cars are allowed to use the street unlike crisologo where cars and trikes are prohibited.


Dont be too immersed in your itinerary for Vigan, have the time to simply relax, explore and enjoy being part of a living historical theme park.




 where the tourists are  the souvenir shops will be there and many of the old houses along crisologo have been converted to souvenir shopts. Enjoy interacting with the sellers, ilocanos are friendly rarely would you be pushed for a purchase.



I certainly fell in love with Vigan and wont hesitate to go back if time and distance allows. I only saw half of the attractions so theres still many reasons for me to explore and enjoy the city. 

some tips for travelers

*visit the city during lean season, rooms become more readily available even without bookings
*get a hotel near calle crisologo to save and transpo expenses
*get ready to get drenched during wet season and bring sunscreen during summer months
*trikes are a better option going to destinations outside heritage village
*the local food is fattening but really good try their empanadas and patronize there are many good restaurants in vigan
*its better to have your own vehicle but if u dont have one take a bus in the evening to avoid the day traffic vigan is quite far from manila its better to travel when theres less cars on the road and  highways
*dont make the mistake of heading to laoag or pagudpud first, vigan is more than calle crisologo so its good to stay longer here than make Laoag your "base". its a compact travel destination unlike pagudpud and laoag where you really need to rent a car since the attractions are several miles apart.
*if you dont want to catch a bus from the highway, theres a Partas bus terminal in vigan itself. go to their website for details on their regular departures
*aside from Farinas  another bus that has a restroom is maria de leon bus transit. 

Other places worth visiting around Vigan

Syquia mansion
Pagburnayan
chapel by the ruins (vicinity of bantayan tower)
National Museum, magsingal branch
Burgos mansion
Banaoang bridge(before the town of vigan)
Rowilda's Loom Weaving
Mindoro beach(great place to watch the sunset)
Mira Hill and Buridek's children museum

Transportation details and other information 

Farinas bus terminal contacts
     Laoag -(077)77270127
     Manila (02) 7314507