Monday, June 12, 2017

Vigan, a living history of past and present, and it keeps getting better!

Travel with ease

Vigan is one of those places that dont get to receive much consistent publicty among local and foreign travelers unlike other more popular places like the banaue rice terraces, boracay, bohol, palawan etc. One of the reasons for this is that this northernmost town up north in the island of Luzon is like a seven to 9 hour drive from manila depending on the traffic.  I recently traveled to this world heritage site with ease at the shortest possible time. Rode a Farinas superdeluxe bus(Laoag bound) in their bus terminal in  sampaloc manila(P850 fare one way)  and i was dropped off outside of town along the highway near the bantayan tower  in the province of ilocos sur or infront of the Vigan arch sign. Bus left around 11pm and arrived in this quaint historical town around 6am. There are two stops along the way, one in rosario la union  and the last one like a mere 10minutes before Vigan. Tricycles are already waiting along the highway (fare P60) it can fit four people to take you to your booked hotel. 


Early Birds

If you arrive early like we did you, its a perfect time to check on the nearly empty town plaza and the imposing saint paul metropolitan cathedral. You can witness how Vigan residents start off their day, going to school, govt offices and restos around plaza salcedo and sidestreets of the famous calle crisologo opening up to local residents. Like Calle Crisologo many government building and restaurants around plaza salcedo, plaza burgos  and around calle crisologo have adopted spanish colonial architecture. The oldest ones of course are concentrated along the touristy streets of calle crisologo and its artery streets.






Its fascinating how the local government  has required building owners and establishments to follow a strict spanish colonial architercural theme not just the ones closer to calle crisologo but also all the govt offices and even popular manila based restaurants outside crisolog street. Vigan afterall is the best planned spanish colonial town in Asia hence its UNESCO distinction and the tourist draw for lovers of history and heritage. it has maintained or atleast preserved many old spanish colonial houses and buildings.

Hotels

Vigan hotels are reasonably priced and most hotels maintain the old world theme of Vigan. Theres even one hotel where  their beds are in the shape of horse carriages. You can book online or directly since it doesnt really get too busy in Vigan during offpeak seasons so there will always be a room for you. Its best to get a hotel thats closer to calle crisologo which is the main tourist street of vigan with its well preserved spanish colonial houses, restos, souvenir shops etc.






The cheapest one i saw when i made an inquiry was fan room at Grandpa's Inn, a fan room for P1500. I think  only the more luxurious Luna Hotel  has its own pool but if its a beach youre after, there is the  nearby public beach Mindoro beach and the govt runned resort which can be reached by tricycle at around P60. Many of the hotels have their small restaurants and offer plated meals or buffet for breakfast.


We stayed at Hotel Venetia de Vigan. It was a nice hotel, luxurious, modern it doesnt have an elevator so this might be a problem for PWDs and senior citizens. It has a grand staircase that leads up to its reception area. The rooms are really nice, staff are friendly, they have a smoking area in the hotel. The ambiance in their restaurant on the groundfloor is nice and their  bar is wellstocked. It used to be an old mansion converted into this lovely hotel. Everything works and room rates are decent for what you get. Calle Crisologo is less than five minutes walk and theres a supermarket nearby if you need to buy on necessities.



If youre looking for cheap food theres the dependable Jollibee and Mcdonalds along Plaza Burgos. Vigan is also famous for its empenada's sold in food stalls everywhere in Vigan and there are numerous empanada carienderias   on the side of St Paul Cathedral which is most frequented by locals and tourists. Another favorite dish in the Ilocos region is "sinanglaw"  and there are many sinanglaw joints scattered all over the city its extremely popular with the locals so its worth a food trip for visitors to try. 


Calle Crisologo

Vigan is renowned for travellers and lovers of history  for its well preserved spanish colonial houses but the most striking area that highlights this architectural feautures is the  street of calle crisologo where this element of spanish colonia architecture is most prevalent. When you are in Vigan you are transported back in time during the spanish colonization of the Philippines with its old houses, cobbled streets, colonial mansions converted into hotels, government offices and restaurants. 




Taking a picture on Calle Crisologo is like being part of a painting or getting inside a postcard. The best time for photos are in the early morning and the evening.





And what better way to enjoy calle crisologo than ride a horse drawn calesa. You can just hop on a calesa theyre usually parked outside Crisologo street behind the st paul cathedral for P150 an hour you can visit any part of the heritage town, visit its many museums and attractions. 

Tourist friendly town

The locals are friendly so dont hesistate to ask around if you need to get somewhere or buy something. The general language here is ilocokano  but most people can speak or understand Tagalog and English. I havent seen a town in the Philippines with very clear sign posts for directions.




Other Attractions

Though calle crisologo hold the main hub of things to do and place to be seen, there are several places outside crisologo that invites visitors to take a look or explore some more...

                                               Nuestra Senora Dela Caridad Church


                                                                Bantay Bell Tower


the most spectacular vista i have seen in my trip to the ilocos region can be seen when you climb up the bantay tower. The view of the local cemetery with the backdrop of the mountains and the greeny is nothing short of  breathtaking. I was simply at awe when i looked outside the tower to see such a wonderful view. 

                                                                   Hidden Garden


Hidden Garden  is basically a plant nursery turned into a restaurant. What may interest the visitor aside from the obvious the abundance of plant variety of this plant nursery are their restrooms. You can take a dump there and have people staring at you from the outside LOL.



Well the pictures above are just one of  among many places to visit and see in Vigan. BTW if you plan to go to hidden garden it would be wise that you just take a trike than hop on a horse carriage. Hidden garden is a bit outside of town and its really a waste of time trying to get their by calesa. Im also not inclined to suggest places like Baluarte and the Vigan river cruise. Baluarte is just a rundown zoo, with hardly that many species of aminals and their interactive encournters with the animals are not on a regular basis so you may just miss the bird shows etc. The museum of stuffed animals, prize collections of the famous local politician Chavit Sison on his overseas safari type of hunting  maybe too digusting  for people who adore animals in general. 


As for the river cruise, its not worth the price to go on this tour. Other bloggers and people who actually seen it were actually dismayed. Unless things improved in the near future i dont think ill recommend it for now. 

Dancing Fountain

One of the favorite activities of tourists and locals in Vigan is to watch the nightly spectacle outside the St Paul cathedral its vigan's newest tourist draw, its light and sound dancing founting show. There are viewing benches on both sides of Plaza Salcedo to enjoy this evening spectacle. Schedules are twice nightly 7pm and 8pm.


Spending some days in this city makes me want to think how different Vigan looks like to most cities in the country. And this good difference somehow erases whatever negative opinion some travelers have about cities like metro manila and other characterless, congested towns and cities in many parts of the country. Vigan is simply charming! and the fusion of that european influence on the town with touches of chinese and filipino heritage makes Vigan very special for vistors. You are immediately immersed in history and thrown back in a time capsule to times when the privileged elite of spanish descen, filipino and   chinese merchants walked thru those cobbled stone streets, ride calesas and did their prayers at the churches in the city. 


the artery streets to calle crisology  are also interesting but you need to be careful when crossing since trikes and cars are allowed to use the street unlike crisologo where cars and trikes are prohibited.


Dont be too immersed in your itinerary for Vigan, have the time to simply relax, explore and enjoy being part of a living historical theme park.




 where the tourists are  the souvenir shops will be there and many of the old houses along crisologo have been converted to souvenir shopts. Enjoy interacting with the sellers, ilocanos are friendly rarely would you be pushed for a purchase.



I certainly fell in love with Vigan and wont hesitate to go back if time and distance allows. I only saw half of the attractions so theres still many reasons for me to explore and enjoy the city. 

some tips for travelers

*visit the city during lean season, rooms become more readily available even without bookings
*get a hotel near calle crisologo to save and transpo expenses
*get ready to get drenched during wet season and bring sunscreen during summer months
*trikes are a better option going to destinations outside heritage village
*the local food is fattening but really good try their empanadas and patronize there are many good restaurants in vigan
*its better to have your own vehicle but if u dont have one take a bus in the evening to avoid the day traffic vigan is quite far from manila its better to travel when theres less cars on the road and  highways
*dont make the mistake of heading to laoag or pagudpud first, vigan is more than calle crisologo so its good to stay longer here than make Laoag your "base". its a compact travel destination unlike pagudpud and laoag where you really need to rent a car since the attractions are several miles apart.
*if you dont want to catch a bus from the highway, theres a Partas bus terminal in vigan itself. go to their website for details on their regular departures
*aside from Farinas  another bus that has a restroom is maria de leon bus transit. 

Other places worth visiting around Vigan

Syquia mansion
Pagburnayan
chapel by the ruins (vicinity of bantayan tower)
National Museum, magsingal branch
Burgos mansion
Banaoang bridge(before the town of vigan)
Rowilda's Loom Weaving
Mindoro beach(great place to watch the sunset)
Mira Hill and Buridek's children museum

Transportation details and other information 

Farinas bus terminal contacts
     Laoag -(077)77270127
     Manila (02) 7314507

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